Kūnmíng, Yúnnán

To begin the China chapter I took a circuitous flight from Calcutta to Kūnmíng, via Bangkok and Kuala Lumpur, which saved me money but certainly not time. Kūnmíng is very much a first world city with its state-of-the-art infrastructure: elevated expressways, landscaped medians, glass curtain wall office and apartment towers, and sprawling suburban master-plans. (Who cares how many people died building the stuff; what's important is that it was completed ahead of schedule and below budget!) Despite the phlegm-throwing, Kūnmíng's streets are immaculate - an enormous relief following three months in India. In its progressive urban ambiance, Kūnmíng bears resemblance to Tokyo, or at least a blossoming version thereof. And the cool, overcast weather hinted at what awaits in western Sìchuān, but first a visit to Yuányáng in southern Yúnnán for some obligatory rice terrace scenery.

It's funny, in advance of coming to China, people continually inquired of my language skills, suggesting it may present an issue. No problem! Fulfilling your basic needs as a traveler is not rocket surgery. That being said... the few days I spent in Kūnmíng were terribly frustrating. Virtually nobody speaks English. What's more, there's typically no recognition of even the most elementary English words like 'bus' or 'yes'. Elsewhere in the world, people who "don't speak English" understand some English that they've absorbed through media or schooling. If Kūnmíng is any indication, getting along in China sans Mandarin proficiency will be a steep uphill battle.