self portrait, bouldering near Gokyo
The far majority of trekking routes in the Everest region are fully-serviced potato trails. Lodges occur every hour or two and are faithfully stocked with beer, whiskey, Snickers, and a standard Himalayan menu. Prices are peculiar: a double room costs about $1.30 - less than a plain pancake ($2.00); a coke runs about $4.00, and a medevac airlift back to Kathmandu is priced reasonably at just $1,500.
the morning elementary school routine, Namche Bazar
Continuing up the Gokyo lakes series from Gokyo village, we reached the fifth lake after about two hours. We scurry atop the moraine separating the lake from Ngozumpa Glacier and find ourselves in awe at the humbling sight of countless 6,000- to 7,000-meter peaks in every direction. We’re standing in the heart of the Himalayan spine – less than 10km away lies Chakung at 7,029m, marking the Tibet-Nepal border. Southeast of Chakung, looking up the Gaunara Glacier, are Everest and Lhotse, wielding their dominance and churning off massive piles of white smoke.
golden hour magic from fifth lake: (l to r) Lhotse, Kangchung, Cholo
As the golden hour approaches, we lose the sun and a bone-stabbing cold descends in an instant. Jumping jacks barely suffice for the next 90 minutes, and my water bottle quickly turns to slush and ice despite my agitating it. The mere thought of the wind chill on Everest was… terrifying. After witnessing the most spectacular crepuscular light show imaginable, we pack up and eagerly begin the return hike to Gokyo village. A full moon produced sharp shadows and gracefully lit up the alpine skyline. Not a breath of air, not another soul on the trail, the Himalaya by moonlight – it was simply surreal…
generic, but obligatory: the west face of Everest at dusk
