Oct 5, 2009

dusty trails

The first leg of our southward journey took us 300km from Nairobi to Arusha, the jumping point to Tanzania’s Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater. These roads are growing familiar – brief patches of freshly laid asphalt followed by persistent stretches of rough dirt and relentless dust. Throughout Kenya and Tanzania, a widespread highway resurfacing project is underway, subcontracted to Chinese construction and engineering firms. The construction costs themselves are being funded by foreign aid monies, in return for natural resource entitlements.



It’s appropriate to point out such a fitting analogy for some of Africa’s shortcomings: business done for the benefit of a few politicians at the expense of local jobs and development; foreign engineers banking expat salaries; idle locals at a loss for skills and advancement. A particularly disturbing sight upon entering Tanzania was that of adult men ceasing their work to outstretch a hand for money. There is a powerful difference between adults begging for money versus children.

Ramadan in Dar
From Arusha we ticked another 650km to Dar Es Salaam - a large port city and Tanzania’s former capital. We were well prepared for the drive but happened to arrive on the evening of the last day of Ramadan. Celebrations were in full swing and thoroughly attended. As night fell we were stranded amongst standstill traffic and the unnerving chaos of street festivities. Masses of people in every direction, matatus blaring hip-hop from blown speakers, and a handful of unsuspecting potatoes peering into their new world through the superficial refuge of truck windows.

Zanzibar
Dar was followed by five days of beach volleyball and marination on Zanzibar. Some downtime in this island paradise was welcomed. The ferry ride back to the mainland on rough seas quickly turned “pear-shaped”, with hoards of men, women and children chucking their guts out inside the boat and all over the bow and stern. Rumors had forewarned of such a meltdown, but it was easier to appreciate after experiencing the sights, sounds and smells firsthand.